Wild World

It was an early rise as we embarked on a 1.5hr drive to Grampians National Park. As noted earlier, portions of the park are closed to the public due to the significant rainfall over the past several months, which caused landslides knocking out road access along with damaging the natural terrain.  I understand this area of the park will be closed for a year.  Hence items like McKenzie Falls as well as the Reeds & Boroka lookouts would be replaced on the tour itinerary by a nature hike/climb up Chautauqua Peak and visit to nearby Brambuk National Park.  This was all known in advance of my tour participation.

I should also mention that driving beyond the Great Ocean Road provided bleak scenery. This area is a rural wasteland, albeit important to the agricultural sustainability for Oz.  Naturally Vern and Charlene were travelling with eyes wide open chatting with one another about the type of vegetation growing, the machines and the farms etc….the rest of us just dozed off until we were summoned to rise at our next checkpoint.

Along the way we did make a pit stop through Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve.  It was a great opportunity to see some indigenous wild life.  We were all pretty keen since none of us had witnessed any local furred or feathered creatures yet.  The Reserve had been initially stocked during the 1950’s some 30,000 years after it was an active volcano. 

As we pulled off to a rest area, Dave mentioned that there was a good chance to see some Koala’s and Parrott’s down the way.  He gave us some feed as we eagerly pounced out of the vehicle with cameras in tow.  Sure enough up in the trees were some of these dudes munching on Eucalyptus leaves.  

Aren’t they supposed to be nocturnal? Apparently they sleep up to 20 hours a day. What a life! Still, I’d rather come back as a cat in my next go round; the benefits of a domestic household are hard to beat.  Feed me, pet me and love me.

As others trolled ahead with seed in hand, blurs of colour screamed from the trees.  These aviators were only too happy to nip seed from the palms of people….land on their shoulders, snap at them and perch upon their heads.  It was entertaining watching my fellow travelling companions frolic about.  I had better sense than to subject myself as a bull’s eye.

Up ahead we saw a couple of Emu’s wandering about on the road.  They apparently mate for life and always travel in pairs, offspring notwithstanding.  Scratch that off the reincarnation wish list.  Dave mentioned it was rare to see these flightless ones so close in the wild. All I know is that they are large and taste yummy in a dumpling for dim sum.

 It was time to move on despite the disappointment of not catching sight of any Roos.  

We eventually came to our destination at Brambuk National Park & Cultural Centre. Dave was back to his indolent ways.  Don’t get me wrong I like the autonomy this tour offered, but shouldn’t guide be a quality a good tour operator possesses? 

He sent us forth to the Cultural Centre to learn about the surrounding area as well as educating ourselves in the nation’s history between Aboriginals and ‘white’ man from the former’s perspective.  No thanks. I had seen this movie before.  

I opted to do a self-guided walk through some of the Park’s trails hoping to catch some more wildlife.  As I entered the forest, I thought it would have probably been wise to let someone know where I was going since I chose a 2.5km loop to waltz along. Beh! Fortune favours the bold!

I commenced my ramble; my senses were on high alert.  It’s amazing how natural sounds can put you on edge when they’re unnatural to your ear. Soon enough in a clearing just before the dense flora began I caught the glimpse of some furry hoppers. Unfortunately they scampered into the forest before I could grab a picture.  

I treaded on. 

In two bats of an eyelash the pair of Kangaroos I witnessed stood about 30’ away from me grazing.  I got out my camera to finally catch these stealthy rodents in action.  

Pleased as peach I continued on my way when the sounds of crushed branches caught my attention.  I suspiciously turned around….

…there on the path were these two bold marsupials leering at me.  I was startled.  The gap between us was now a mere 15’ and so began our Mexican standoff.

 

I see you.  You see me. I see you.  You see me.

Shit! What do I do? I know they’re vegetarians. I know they’re generally not violent unless provoked, but I also know you don’t want to mess with them.  I’ve seen those Looney Tunes cartoons with Sylvester. 

We continued our stare contest. I was beginning to think maybe they’re not that cute anymore.  Ever so carefully I slowly tiptoed backwards edging towards longer strides.  Suddenly the Roos began hopping towards me!  Goddamn they can cover some ground quickly.  

Now was no time to be a hero, after all I was outnumbered and playing in the visitor’s ballpark so I upped my pace of retreat. Just as I was scanning the grounds for a weapon they veered off to the other side of the trail into the woods.

Sigh! 

I guess I was just traffic on their route to more food.  I had enough excitement so I made my way back to the Cultural Centre with haste.  I regaled the others with my encounter, but they seemed more disappointed having failed to catch a peek of these native marsupials. 

No worries, I’m fine. 

I then waited patiently as they continued their time in the park until their desires were quenched with photos of Kangaroos.

We collected ourselves at a nearby picnic area to have some lunch.  The meal was an improvement from the preceding night’s fare probably since we all did the shopping the previous evening in Warrambool.  I must have missed the DIY graphic in the tour brochure.  

Plump from our lunch it was time to make our way up Chautauqua Peak.  This is considered a medium grade climb on a 5.6km loop with a 200m elevation.  That’s about 600’ for you imperial centric readers out there.  Alarmingly Dave decided to join us for the hike. Well, part of it.  You see Dave is a middle aged out of shape fella that has a lovely base about him.  

About half way up he opted to return to the van to prevent his fatigue having another 2hr drive ahead of us.  I suppose that could be considered preventive maintenance, but upon our return he was lounging at a nearby hostel that Goin South uses on the tour from Adelaide to Melbourne.  

Oddly enough we encountered the other Goin South group coming down the peak. There was the guide and three beautiful nubile girls (Business must be booming).  Why the hell wasn’t I on that trip?  I truly considered doubling back on my journey….12 Apostles, Melbourne and fine company were hardly the losing end of the stick; but, I just couldn’t let down the rest of my group.  

Anke also decided to head back with Dave as she was feeling a little ill from the gorge at lunch.  She also had flip flops on (thongs as they’re referred to here…really? What are thongs called?)  Granted she looked a little pale.  I also thought Charlene and Vern should have also taken an early return ticket as the climb would only get steeper as we escalated the peak.  I think Vern’s testosterone prevented that course of action.  Good to know that male testicular fortitude will still be waiting for me at his age. 

About 1.5hrs later we finally reached the vista that Chautauqua Peak offered.  

Charlene and Vern had to settle for a summit about 50’ down from the apex as the terrain proved to be too much for them.  Nevertheless, I applaud their courage and effort especially in high 20’s heat and humidity. 

Sleep came quickly for the lot of us as we made our way into South Australia for our next resting place in Narracoorte. This hostel was owned by Dave and Sonja.  It was just as scruffy as the previous night’s lodgings. However, it did have a little more breadth to it since it also served as their residence.   

There were a couple of other backpackers staying along with a host of long term travellers who were working in the area.  I guess the former lot were transitioning through the area or had a yen to experience farm life.   

Amongst the ‘lifers’ at the hostel whom were plying their talents at apple orchards and potato farms (making between $17-$23/hr) was resident RA Liam, a Dutch chap who was our chef du jour.  What a feast! We had BBQ chicken, sausage, beef and Roo! (I told myself they were relatives of the evil doers I met earlier in the day).  The Roo was quite delicious, texture of beef with a little more pungent flavour and very lean.  Apparently they tote around only 2% body fat.

Our banquet was accompanied by a wealth of salads and cold beer (Cooper’s Pale Ale) from the bottle shop down the street. Credit should also go to Sonja who was the prep artist behind our spread and obviously the cook of the household.  

As the evening waned on people began to fade into the night, but Iladia, Anke, Liam and myself continued to polish off ale after ale while enjoying laughs from our new found Dutch friend.  Brilliant.