Red, Red Wine

I had a relatively low key Tuesday with a little quiet time, travel research and some grooming.  Firstly, I spent a great deal of measure researching message boards about where to get a haircut.  Alas, a Vogue forum led me to Liquid Hair.  This was the greatest risk I have taken on my trip thus far.  You all know me, so I need not explain. 

  

Thankfully Alex (F) was quite good.  We had a nice chat.  She grew up between Melbourne and Adelaide, with her parents splitting from an early age. I panned her for opting as she did.  Anyway, she and her partner are moving to Fullerton, CA. next year.  This is a district in the OC, just outside Anaheim. Having been there, I think she’ll fit in quite easily.  She was also able to recommend a good place in Myers Centre in get a pedi.  It’s true a leopard cannot change its spots.  Don’t hate me for being beautiful.

Afterwards I made my way down to Glenelg, a bay side suburb of Adelaide.  The tram ride was a quick 20min jaunt.  The shoreline community was distinctly more modern than Adelaide with contemporary condos row upon row banking alongside a lovely beach area.  I was also craving for a ride after seeing top flight riders and bikes blaze along the sea wall trail. Blast!

I returned back to the hostel to plan my trip to the Barossa Valley as well as attempting to get my way to Sydney in time for Mardi Gras this weekend.  I’ll defer the latter details for another post.  

Possessing a general knowledge of the region, I had some wherewithal of which wineries I wanted to visit.  Resident Australian wine critic James Halliday also helped steer the course.  Most of the tours available were pre-ordained that seldom ticked off more than 2 or 3 vineyards I wanted to visit whilst having to visit several crap ones….like Jacobs Creek.  As with most things in my life, I can be pretty particular.  You can utter your term(s) to yourself, but keep it clean.

I eventually found my way to Epicurean Wine Tours, who had rave reviews on line and would be able to personalize a tour to my liking as well as integrating various foodie sites on the tour like the Barossa Cheese Company and Maggie Beer’s Farm, a Barossa food tradition.  

Upon contacting the company it was evident that their reputation preceded them well.  The service was excellent providing a willingness to meet my needs and suggest a number of options to best satisfy my palette.  Unfortunately, there were no other wine goers scheduled for a tour during the week, which meant a private chauffeured sedan ride down to the valley.  Regrettably it was a cost prohibitive option that was near the $250 ballpark.

Although I was strongly considering the above option, I managed to find a rental agency that would be able to help with a car hire.  A LARGE thank you goes to my mother to assist in facilitating this choice. As you may or may not know I am travelling without a credit card.  Everything is on a cash basis. I was able to secure a little Hyundai Getz, which I don’t even think are imported overseas.  Anyway, the cost was 75% less than the tour.

The Barossa Valley is just over an hour ride from Adelaide. I left by mid-morning to give myself enough grace between wineries and mitigate any risk that a self-guided tour may bring.  The Valley is primarily renowned for its Shiraz and quite easily the top wine growing region in Australia as well as one that has international accolades.  The region has had a rough go at it over the past 5 years or so due to climate conditions, first drought then flooding.  

My first stop was at Rockford Wines. I began by sampling the Riesling, which was surprisingly crisp and flavourful.  Yet, it won’t make me stop buying those hailing from the Rhine Valley in Germany.  I engaged in some great conversation with the cellar door representative, her son and fellow mid-week drinkers.  Picking up on my accent she deduced I was Canadian.  Upon advising her that I was from Toronto, she retorted with “…Oh! The centre of the Universe”

I was startled to learn this reputation extended beyond Canada’s borders.  I came to learn her daughter now lives in Calgary, which brought everything into perspective.  Nevertheless, I had a great time at Rockford spending just about an hour sampling various wines, those listed and some vintages that were not.  

Oddly enough I ended up purchasing a bottle of 2007 Rod & Spur, a Cab/Shiraz blend, which I would typically stray away from and in fact initially omitted from the tasting, but Marion convinced me to try it.  Wise. I would have preferred to take way the divine 2008 Basket Press Shiraz, but it was a little beyond my reach even at cellar door prices.  Most modern day pressing techniques involve mechanical hydraulic machines, so it was refreshing to learn of a more traditional approach taken at Rockford.  BTW, Marion also made a suggestion to purchase a blade corkscrew to assist with removing any severed corks from the neck without having to decant and strain the wine.

A few hundred meters down the road was the now famous Charles Melton winery.  Regrettably the Rosé was not available for tasting as there were only 4 ½ cases remaining in stock. It must be due to those crazy kids over in Melbourne.  I was able to try the Brut as well as one of their still wines in their 2008 Nine Popes, a stunning Grenache.  For those back home who crave wines from this vineyard you can contact Howard Wasserman at B&W Wines, a consignment/agent house on King St W.  He also deals with Rockford Wines.  I don’t think the Rosé is listed on the site, but it can be made available according to the vineyard.  

My next stop was at Turkey Flat.  Shauna was an ex-pat from Glasgow who had been in the area for the past three years.  She was a lovely lass and extremely knowledgeable.  She also served me water in prompt fashion. Hmmm…a sign?

I skipped over their whites and went right for the reds.  I started with the 2008 Grenache, then on to the 2009 GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mouvèrde), then the Cab.  I opted to skip to the Mouvèrde since I know it’s mostly grown here to blend wine and not bottle exclusively, but I was persuaded once again.  It was a nice smooth drinking wine.  I settled on procuring the 2008 Shiraz, which is a nice elegant wine and nowhere as bold as others grown in the region.  

As the afternoon began to get away from me, I knew I only had time to visit a couple more vineyards.  I wanted to get to Elderton desperately after having had a flight of their wines compliments of Jeff, which ranged from 1992 to 1998. I think.  The 1998 Command Shiraz still gives me happiness inside.  Unfortunately, I know that Elderton has changed their wine making process towards less traditional methodologies.  Although they still produce a Command Shiraz, most of their wines lacked substance.  

However, Morgan at the cellar door was fantastic and I just couldn’t leave without taking a bottle of the 2008 Merlot as she shared a similar life philosophy of eat, drink and be merry. She also encouraged me to return for the Barossa Vintage Festival starting Easter weekend, where Elderton has their annual wine bowling extravaganza.  Perhaps this was a chance to exercise those Wii skills should I opt to return to the area later.  

There was time for one more stop at Torbreck Vintners as their cellar door closed later than the rest. WOW!  These wines were by far and away the best sampled all day.  I managed to secure a tasting from 10 of their reds, including some cellar door exclusives.  They were all outstanding.  I commenced with the couple of so-so Shiraz’s from their Woodcutter series before making my way to 2007 GSM which was a rich and flavourful wine.  Next up was one of their more classical Shiraz’s in the 2007 Struie a prime example of the full bodied Shiraz’s bottled in this region.

Next was an even bolder Shiraz in the 2007 Factor. Oh, these wines kept on getting better and better.  This was followed by 2007 Descendant Shiraz.  Lastly, there was the king and queen of their wines in The Celts and The Gask, each a cellar door exclusive from 2008.  Amazing!  Despite the price tag, I walked away with a bottle with The Gask. 

I realized that I had gone the whole day without food, which in itself isn’t a strange phenomenon; but I had been drinking for a steady five hours.  I did pack a cooler bag of fruits, veggies along with pita & dips, so I still had my wits about me. I managed to get myself back into the town of Tanunda without an incident.  I always proclaim to follow the locals and the trail led to Tanunda Chicken were I grabbed their schnitzel dinner and made my way over to the recreational park to eat and catch a few z’s before returning back to Adelaide. 

Unfortunately, the bloody LCBO restrictions prohibit shipping wines back home so now I’m toting around four, three bottles of wine around with me.  Some of the wines I have should really be aged another 5-10 years, but I guess I’ll just have to lighten my load during my travels.